Homebuilt Miter Saw Table Christmas Project

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Build this folding miter saw table - it's my design and the best I've ever seen or used!

This folding miter saw table is my Christmas present, and project for my son. You've seen him build a coffee table using my tools in an earlier section. He really likes my tools and wishes for his own to do projects for his home and family. I went all out with this design - I wish it was mine!

These two pictures (finished!) are before I disassembled it to take to his home for Christmas. We'll have fun putting it all back together in the snow!

It all started when I found a new Delta Shopmaster 10" compound miter saw for only $45 at a pawn shop. I had been looking for tools at Home Depot, Lowe's, and Sears, but everything was too expensive if it was good, or junk if I could afford it! It was missing the handle for the bevel locking mechanism though.

By removing the split pin, I was able to pull off the mandrel for some serious re-engineering. No one in my area stocked a replacement knob and I couldn't get one until after Christmas. I fashioned my own from a static door-pull, drilled and tapped the mandrel and handle for a machine screw, and filled the oversize opening with epoxy putty. It's perfect!

With the miter saw fully functional, I couldn't stop tinkering. Let's make a real present and build a stand! I know how awkward it is to kneel on the pavement and the extra material would easily fit in my Nitro for the drive. Here are the major materials needed for the stand plus what I already had on hand.

For this project, once again I'm using my tried-and-true double lap joint to tie the legs and rails together. This is my preferred construction method, but requires a full size 10' table saw and my Mod-3 Tenon Jig. I'm also going to show an alternative, not as cheap or elegant, but equally sturdy using large lag screws and bolts. Both designs, unlike the other tables I've described on this site, are going to be very tall (39.5") with a very small top (2' x 2') and would be very unstable with plumb legs. For these miter saw tables, I decided to cant the legs out 7-1/2 degrees in both directions giving a 32.5" by 32.5" footprint for the double lap joint, and 30" by 30" for the bolted method since the legs are inside the rails instead of unitized.

The next two photos show both methods, the Mod 3 Tenon Jig with the addition of a 7-1/2 degree wedge for the leg to butt against, and 6" lag bolts for the rail assembly pre-drilled of course!

The back legs of both designs use inexpensive fixed 3" casters and are ~3" shorter than the front legs. It takes precise drilling for the 2" lag-bolts, and about 30 minutes with an open ended wrench to get them fastened!

Both designs require the top of the rails and legs to be beveled the matching 7-1/2 degrees for the table top to mount, and need a couple of beefy bar-clamps to hold everything in proper alignment to bore the pilot holes. The assembly is different between the two designs. With the double lap joints, the legs are first attached to the side rails, and then the end rails. With the bolted method, the end rails are attached to the side rails with 6" lag bolts, then the legs are bolted to the completed rail assembly.

Here's a great side-by-side view of my 12" Tradesman miter saw and stand, and my son's soon to be Christmas present. It's no accident that the designed height is 39.5" - that's what my saws height is, and both of us found that saw very comfortable to use. Even without the joints glued (can't do that until I deliver it!), this miter saw table is much more stable and a lot easier to move around than mine.

This is the bolted miter saw table before finishing. Whereas the double lap method uses stock re sized to 3 inches, this uses standard 2x4 for the legs, but needs a 2x6 for the rails to allow enough material for the 5 large bolts. The extra hardware and 2x6 also make it twice as costly to build.

Once again, I couldn't stop tinkering with this design! My son doesn't have my adjustable roller stands and can't afford them, and without lateral support, the saw on it's stand is kind of useless cutting long timbers.

He needs a real miter saw table!

So far I've only spent $50 for the saw, and $20 for the stand. What's in my shop that with the left-over materials from the stand (2/3 of a 2x4) and some extra hardware could transform this miter saw stand into a really useful and functional miter saw table? Well, there's a 2' wide closet door I don't need (with hinges!), and assorted nuts, bolts, screws, and strap hinges. No harm trying!

The hollow core closet door is the key to this design. It's much lighter and stiffer than plywood and would require no additional bracing. After cutting it into two 34" sections, and using some scrap off the 2x4 and re-sawing it to fit, it only needed gluing and painting to make two extension tables.

My son doesn't have the space to store something this wide with fixed extensions, much less move, it so my final design evolved into a folding miter saw table.

The hinging was a real challenge to bring the wing extensions to the exact height as the saw surface. These two photos show the main beam folded down, and the complicated steps I used for the critical alignment.

If you think the hinging was a challenge, the support braces to bring the wing extensions exactly horizontal really took some inspired thinking! Here's what I call the "Wing Swing Brace", and the critical alignments for it to butt against the wing's underside stop. I've never seen an easier bracing system! With the wing extension's low weight, it's a breeze to raise it and swing the brace as one unit into place. Sweet!

With all the structure test fitted, I had fun with extra details. First, all the upper horizontal surfaces are painted (two coats) with Rustoleum's super white oil based high gloss enamel. Miserable to work with, but tough as nails for the working surfaces. I added a triple bulb light that was laying broken in a corner for spotlighting the work area.

To move the table around are two removable handles (paint extension pole) with bored holes in the outside edge of the front legs for pushing, and bore holes on the inside face for pulling the saw up a ramp and for out-of-the-way storage when the tool's in use. The fence extensions also have bore holes for a dog clamp - pictured on the far left - to hold the material in place, or as pictured, to position a stop block for repeated cuts. There are additional sockets on the saw, and the wings to position the dog clamp in a sideways position to force the material toward the fence. The arbor wrench is mounted to the face so it won't fall off when moving, but is easily removed for blade changes. Under the rail is a multiple outlet for the saw, lights, and any additional tool if you're using the wings for other use, and cable clamps to keep the wiring neat.

This was a fun project and the extra details cost little, yet add functionality and convenience every craftsman wishes for in a miter saw table!

Here are the details behind my folding miter saw table design!

To build this miter saw stand, we have some tricky cuts. I'll show you the tools and jigs I used, and the tricks I use for alignment and assembly

With the stand done, it's time to build the miter saw table components, and more importantly, the precision measures and assembly. Lots of tricks and techniques you'll need for this project and others.

Building this miter saw table was a fun project for the Christmas season, and I'm sure my son will appreciate it and think of me every time he steps into his shop. I hope this design encourages you to build one too!

Back from Christmas with some picture updates!

From left to right
1) Mini barn/shed 2)Assembling Toy Hummer 3) Finished Toy 4) Delivered Saw

5) First Project 6) Folding Attic Ladder 7) Ladder Lock 8) Attic Hatch

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